Harley-Davidson Oil Bag Replaced

While Looking Through The New J&P Catalog, We Found A Few Things To Help Change The Look Of My Old Bike, Starting With The Oil Bag. When I built this bike the first time, I found myself at the swap meet a lot and got my hands on a stock Softail H-D oil bag with battery box built-in. It looked good and the chrome was clean. It was also a perfect fit and bolted to the frame without any modifications. With time and a lot of miles, the bag got beat-up looking and one of the tabs broke off, so it was time to change it out. I like the look of the round bag, but was having a hard time finding one that bolts right up without having to weld new tabs, and only because I just got the frame painted and did not want to have to repaint it. We called Pam Proctor at J&P and asked about the round bags and if any could replace a stock bag by just bolting right on. They did carry a few that would do the job; we just needed to pick the fill point, side of top fill, and chromed or polished finish. We asked for a side fill chromed bag, part number 740-910, that cost around $200-good price to change the look of the bike.

Here is the bag and the hardware....        read full caption Here is the bag and the hardware. The kit comes with oil fittings, the lower mounting tab, fill plug, and drain plug, as well as a frame tab that can be welded on the frame if you still needed to paint. When we told Pam what we were doing, she told us that we would also need the battery box rear mount. If you are starting with a stock H-D bag and swapping out the old bag, then you already have one. If not, the part number is 740-483.	We started with cleaning the...        read full caption We started with cleaning the threads of any chrome or debris by running a tap through them, so that we could get a good seal from the fittings. This is one place we did not want to strip the threads, or break off the mounts.	We used a generous amount...        read full caption We used a generous amount of thread tape and covered all the threads on the fittings. We did not want to have a leak along any of the fittings, or drain plug.
Next, we bolted the rear mount...        read full caption Next, we bolted the rear mount to the bag. Here, we are showing where two of the four rubber grommets go. This may help with any vibration along the tabs and the oil lines.	After the old bag was removed,...        read full caption After the old bag was removed, we also pulled out the starter just to make sure that everything would fit. We soon found out that it was a waste of time. The bag slid right in place, and we lined up the bag with the mounting tabs. Then we pulled the bag back out so we could tighten all the frame tabs. Word of advice: Don't forget the thread locker.	With the new oil bag in place,...        read full caption With the new oil bag in place, there was plenty of room to install the new starter ( well, the old one anyway). The oil bag has three holes in the battery box to run the wires from under the bag. The starter wires and the ignition were routed up through the bag before the battery just to make sure there was enough room.
Next, the front bag mount...        read full caption Next, the front bag mount was bolted to the seat post seam on the frame. Then the rear mounting bolts were tightened to the frame. With the bag out of the bike, all the wires that ran to the battery were pulled out of the old bag and moved out of the way until we could get the battery back in the bike.	Next, the oil fitting was...        read full caption Next, the oil fitting was installed; from left to right, it goes feed, return, vent.	Then we installed the new...        read full caption Then we installed the new rubber lines. We found some 1/4-inch set clamps at the auto parts store for around a buck or so.
We then filled the bag with...        read full caption We then filled the bag with new oil and installed the battery. Finally, we reconnected all the wires. It's a good idea to leave the drain plug out first, and pour a little oil in the bag to let any dirt drain from it. Then reinstall the drain plug, and fill the bag. The bag holds about three quarts, but start with 2-1/2 quarts and start up the bike. Let the oil move through the lines, then check and add as needed.	After a few miles, pull over...        read full caption After a few miles, pull over and check for any leak at the lines, as we did. Well, there you have it; a clean new look to the bike with a round bag in less than two hours, if we had not pulled the starter. Thanks, Pam.