Harley clutches are pretty hardy. They can and have taken hard knocks in their quest to deliver the power of the V-twin engine to the rear wheel providing the forward momentum. However, clutches are perishable. The fiber (driven) plates wear away, the steel (drive) plates can wear also, but the main cause or reason to replace a clutch is warping. The smooth operation of a multi-plate clutch is due in part to the flatness of the plates. When the clutch lever is out (or in the engaged position), the clutch springs press the plates together, making the rear wheel connection. Pull in the clutch lever and the spring pressure is eased, allowing the plates to spin next to each other and allowing the engine to continue running while the bike is immobile. Simple, right? That's true, if all of the components are in good working order.
Now, we come to the subject of our story-a '75 Harley-Davidson Shovelhead that has received a weld-on hardtail, a springer frontend, and an open beltdrive, among other touches. This bike underwent its transformation at Four Aces Cycle Supply in Pacoima, California. During the build, the decision was made to reuse as many original parts and pieces as possible. The parts included the clutch that came with the bike. When the time came to start the bike, it fired easily, but when it was dropped in gear, it lurched forward and stalled. A couple more attempts to readjust the clutch were made but the results weren't any better. It was time to upgrade.
After removing the pressure plate, springs, fiber, and steel plates, it was decided to replace the entire package and add a Sifton clutch basket retainer to limit the basket's in-and-out movement on the clutch hub bearings. Once this operation was completed, the clutch worked perfectly; no "walking" and no slipping. SC
 1. Here we have the finished...  1. Here we have the finished clutch installed and adjusted on the hardtailed Shovelhead. |  2. The stock clutch (as it...  2.The stock clutch (as it came with the bike) featured a pressed steel pressure plate and springs. |  3. To get started, we loosened...  3. To get started, we loosened the clutch cable adjuster and ran the adjuster (arrow) all the way in, which introduces free play. |
 4. An easy way to remove...  4. An easy way to remove the pressure plate and springs is to use a 3/8-inch fender washer (arrow) under the clutch pushrod adjuster locknut and tighten a few turns, taking the pressure off the plates. |  5. There are three nuts that...  5. There are three nuts that adjust the spring pressure, each nut has a groove machines on one side. This groove indexes on the stamped rib of the spring retainer plate, this locking the nut in place. |  6. Once the three adjustment...  6. Once the three adjustment nuts were removed, the entire pressure plate assembly could be removed as one piece, exposing the clutch plates. |