74 Clutch Upgrade

7. There are five fiber plates in the clutch, each one separated by a steel plate. The fiber plates are driven, meaning they are fixed to the transmission main shaft via the clutch hub; the hub has 10 pins that the fiber plates ride on.

8. The four steel plates are the drive plates that are driven by the six square lugs riveted to the inside wall of the clutch basket. The clutch basket constantly turns when the engine runs.

9. When removing the fiber plates we noticed some oil had been "squeezed" from the thin lining (most of the lining had worn away). The steel plates were slightly discolored and when we put a straight-edge across the plate, we found them warped. We checked each plate in a couple of directions, and both sides.

10. While we had the straight-edge in hand, we checked the pressure plate surface-it also was warped (arrow). With the steel plates and the pressure plate warped, it's tough to get the clutch to release when the lever is pulled in because the plates never fully separate from each other. There is one other contributing factor, which we'll get to in a moment.

11. We decided to upgrade all clutch components at one time. All parts were purchased from V-Twin. The clutch plate kit (A) includes fiber and steel plates, 10 springs, and a clutch hub lining. The Sifton clutch basket retainer kit (B) is adjustable to prevent the clutch basket from "walking" out. The final kit is the aluminum pressure plate kit (C).

12. Ok, we had the old clutch removed and were ready to fit the clutch basket retainer, but first we have to remove the bearing retainer (A). The bearing retainer is held in place by the three conical springs (B), one each on the long studs of the clutch hub.

13. The bearing retainer is stamped steel and slid off the 10 studs easily. Check the back of the retainer for any discoloration indicating hot-running bearings.

14. The pointer indicates the edge of the clutch hub/basket bearing retainer.

15. The Sifton retainer is plastic with three different depth holes marked A, B, and C.

16. We began by placing the retainer on the three long studs using the three holes marked A. To secure the retainer, we used the supplied three snap-rings that fit in the groove, once occupied by the conical springs.

17. Using a feeler gauge, we measured the amount of endplay the clutch basket had with the A-series of holes.

18. We looked for around 0.01-inch endplay, so after checking the A-series, we went right to the C-series of holes, which turned out too tight, so we used the B-series of holes. Note that the clutch hub has 10 studs but only three long studs. You need to pay attention when lining up the retainer so the correct series of holes are on the three long studs.

19. Next in was a steel plate. Remember the steel plates are indexed by the square "dogs" on the inside way of the basket. Again, the plates must slide in and out easily with no binding.

20. Next in was a steel plate. Remember the steel plates are indexed by the square "dogs" on the inside way of the basket. Again, the plates must slide in and out easily with no binding.

21. Here we ran into a small problem with the last fiber plate: it didn't want to slide on the 10 studs. After close examination, we found a small edge on one of the 10 holes. We used a hand-powered countersink on all of the 10 holes (both sides) to remove the edge.

22. Success; the last fiber plate went in no problem. You should be able to grab the clutch hub studs and rotate the hub with a little hand pressure, indicating the plates are free to spin.

23. Next, the new aluminum pressure plate. We checked that the inside was flat with our straight edge.

24. Another problem surfaced: the pressure plate clutch spring adjusting nuts (arrow) didn't fit in the holes of the outer spring plate. To fix this we opened up the holes in the outer plate with a drill.

25. After fitting the adjustment nuts to the outer spring plate, we were ready to assemble the pressure plate. We started by placing the 10 clutch springs in the pockets of the pressure plate and threaded the pushrod adjustment screw (arrow) into the pressure plate a few turns.

26. Using the same fender washer we used on the stock pressure plate, we assembled the outer spring plate to the pressure plate in the same manner.

27. We indexed the pressure plate on the clutch hub. With a drop of Blue Loctite on the threads of the adjuster nuts, we tightened the nuts until we could remove the fender washer.

28. The outer spring plate should run parallel to the pressure plate. The easiest way is to measure the distance between the two with a scale measured at each long stud. There will be a difference between the measurement with the aluminum plate and the stock steel plate. Our measurements indicated it to be about 11/16 inch, as shown. We then adjusted the pushrod screw in until it touched the pushrod, backed out a quarter turn and locked down the locknut. The last step was to adjust the clutch cable keeping in mind that there should be at least 1/8 inch of free play at the lever.

29. The final test was a ride. Here, Wes White, the proprietor of Four Aces, gives the Shovel a testride checking the much improved clutch upgrade. The smile is unrehearsed.