Jaybrake Forward Control Install

7. Moving back to the right, the master cylinder was attached to the arm with the two supplied bolts.

8. This was followed by attaching the brake arm and footpeg, and...

9. ...finally finishing the install by adding the rubber brake pedal to the arm.

10. The master cylinder outlet is on the front of the master cylinder. Due to the custom nature of this rat bike we decided to make a brake line. We chose an angled fitting from Goodrich that would clear the master cylinder.

11. After routing and measuring the length of brake line we'd need, we used a sharp hacksaw to cut each end flush. The blue tape on the end helped get cleaner results.

12. These are the fittings we used on either end of the braided brake hose. They consist of three parts: the socket, the olive, and the main fitting body.

13. After cutting both ends, the protective clear shrinktube had to be cut back to allow fitment of the socket over the cable.

14. A Goodrich mandrel tool was used to flare the end of the hose in preparation of adding the olive.

15. After flaring the end, the olive was pushed onto the end of the hose and seated in the inner part of the brake hose. The main body was then simply inserted into the hose, before...

16. ... the socket was tightened down. One end was complete.

17. Moving back to the bike, we prepared the new brake line for installation. Two brake washers were placed on either end of the main body fitting, held by the banjo bolt and tightened to the master cylinder.

18. Since the brake line routing was a tight fit from the front of the bike to the rear caliper, the second fitting had to be done on the bike. Just as before the mandrel was used to flare the end of the brake hose.

19. To aid in tightening the socket, the banjo bolt was attached to the main body and caliper.

20. The brake line was a perfect fit that literally took minutes to make. It took longer to route and measure than it did to make the line.