9. The horizontal cross bar needs to be symmetrical if there are any bends to be done and this takes some careful planning. T-Bone makes a note of the bend angle as well as using a digital angle finder to make sure the bar stays on the same plane for both bends so things don't get all cattywampus.
10. Using a sturdy base plate, T-Bone mounts the riser tubes on the specific center line as my early Panhead top tree and we see things starting to take shape.
11. Stainless steel has an appetite for blades with teeth on them, so a cutoff wheel is used and much cheaper than burning through blades. Here the riser tubes are cut to length, exactly the same length.
12. The same goes for notching stainless especially when we only need a little bit. A 1-inch drum sander arbor with a 36-grit drum are used to finish the "notch" after deftly taking a couple of angled slices out with the cutoff wheel.
13. Here we see more of the robust jig T-Bone uses. He takes great care in making sure everything is square and dimensionally correct before welding the bars together.
14. Final TIG welding begins when T-Bone feels like everything is nipped and tucked just so. The welds are done in two passes to ensure high strength and durability.
15. Bars like these with tall risers are stress relieved with the torch after final welding so they don't spring out of shape when they come out of the jig, but the main reason is so they'll fit on your bike.
16. After letting them cool, bolting them on the frontend, and putting the grips and clutch lever on the bike it looks better than ever! They came out just like I had envisioned and suit the rest of the bike perfectly. Get a hold of T-Bone and see what he can do for you!